March 15, 2003. To Picacho State Park NE of Tucson. Got site in the non-electric circle , biked around, enjoyed seeing lupines and poppies and other flowers blooming. Nice day use area.

March 16, 2003. Got to Catalina State Park around 10:30, in time to get the only electric site available at that point. Apparently there is a better system now for accommodating people in getting the site location they desire. This park is nearly always full so we were glad to get any site. Put up bird feeders; so far we have seen Finches, White-crowns, Chippers, Gilas, Cardinals, Phainopeplas, and more. Went to get food and hardware; fixing small probs. The skies opened up with rain--hoping for many wildflowers!

Errands included getting camera coupler, a bike seat, a camera bag, handle for screen door, doing laundry, and dealing with e mail. Took birding trails at Catalina, went to the Sweetwater Sewage Treatment ponds, and Agua Caliente Park up Tanque Verde. Got slew of paperwork done, consulted with Steve about Andrea's education, got C's binoculars sent off to Swarovsky, and got earlier reservation at S Llano. Visited the Tucson Audubon Nature Shop, as usual, and watched hundreds of folks enjoying an annual street fair a block away. Interesting juxtaposition, watching folks enjoy and indulge themselves while the Iraq war gets underway. Enjoyed an electrical site for a change, though we have been doing fine with few plug-ins along the way. We have been watching quite a bit of news on TV.

March 23, 2003. Took off for Patagonia State park and managed to slip into the spot right next to the nature trail (#12). Perfect! Did a short tour of the Sonoita Preserve and visited the Paton place, as well. Five or six kinds of hummers there, Cassin's Finch.

March 24, 2003. Started before 7 AM to explore the upper lake area. It was fairly cold and the birdies were puffed up into large balls of feathers. Spent good time discovering what we thought were Sprague's Pipits, though a man I met along the trail disputed this finding. C turned back midway to take care of income tax stuff, and when I continued farther upstream, I was amazed to see a male Elegant Trogan. Also saw a Zone-tailed Hawk. This seems to be the Year of the Verdin-YAV!

March 25, 2003. To Kartchner Caverns State Park. ($22 E). No tickets available for tour of caverns (there are 100 tickets a day which are given out in a lottery fashion, and apparently folks start lining up around 4:30 AM.) Instead, we took off for the San Pedro area and walked up the river a bit. The area is desperately dry, many trees are dead, except for the large cottonwoods beside the river. Bird population seems down but that's hard to determine, especially in the middle of the day.

March 26, 2003. Started out to go to Rockhound State Park (New Mexico), only we changed plans midstream and decided to go to Las Cruces instead. Parked at Siesta RV Park on La Masilla, near the old town district. Managed to do a bit of shopping there--a couple rugs for the house and one gift. Looks like the old district is in worse straits than when we were there before. Las Cruces is not looking entirely good or prosperous.

March 27, 2003. Left early for Balmorrhea State Park in West Texas. Strong wind was predicted and it hit--fortunately it was at our back nearly all the way. Stopped en route at a Love's gas station and were given the complete run-around of pre-paying, card not working, having to stand in lines three times. So bad it was funny. Well, we're not far from Mexico, we decided! Huge traffic jams around El Paso. The temperature rose to near 90 degrees in the evening and there were numerous folks who bathed in the magnificent pool. As darkness came, the temp dove and it quickly fell to 35 degrees during the night!

March 28, 2003. As I was rubbing the rain off the bikes I thought it was cold enough to snow, and looking more closely, snow was mixed into the rain. (Remember 90 yesterday?) Wind this day came from the NE, so we had it against us about all day. Arrived at S Llano around 2 pm, ran into Bill and Rosita and later joined them and another volunteer couple for lunch at Isaacks. Got site #19 (we still have the valid annual day pass card we purchased last year, which saves $6 in visitor fees daily). Went to the large blind to see who was there ("who" being birds, of course) --nice to be back.

March 29 - April 5, 2003 Karin and Mark arrived at midnight after driving over from Austin. They were treated by a temp of 17 degrees the first night and a mild 24 the following night. The Kelty tent kept them alive. As the week progressed, the weather improved, though it was occasionally windy. We stayed around S Llano for the most part but did spend one day over at Lost Maples--and they got quick glimpses at the Golden-cheeked Warbler and the Green Kingfisher. Watched a Short-tailed Hawk hover in the sharp winds--a critter not supposed to be in these parts.

Took numerous walks along the S Llano River, finally saw a Summer Tanager, numerous Yellow-throated Vireos, Carolina Chickadees, Black-crested Titmice, and more. The Green Kingfisher evaded me, as usual, though Karin saw one. (We are just a bit early for the neo-tropical migrants.) We enjoyed all three blinds and appreciated the improvements made to each. Found that some of our pictures had faded and we are replacing those. Also we will be providing a timer for the fountain at the main blind. We had fun making abbreviations for various birds--ATF is Ash-throated Flycatcher, and this practice carried through to the war coverage by outdated generals: GASCOM.

Went out to dinner one eve for barbecue to Collins and on our last day went out for lunch with Bill and Rosita and another couple from San Antonio named Charles and LaRue to Come N Get It restaurant. Later, stopped with the new photos for the blind to Bill and Rositas digs, and we made an inspection of their Bounder like they had done with ours. Great to share ideas.

April 8 and 9, 2003. Said 'bye to Bill and Rosita and headed for Uvalde and Park Chalk Bluff via Rocksprings. It's like visiting old friends to come to our favorite places in Texas. Park Chalk Bluff is a older private park, not all that great for camping but has a wonderful bird habitat. We took the same camping spot we'd had last year (#34)--seems prices had gone up! We had the place almost to ourselves, rode bikes all over, updated the bird sitings book we'd presented to Gwen last year. Also made a run down to Concan, saw the Olive Sparrow, Hooded Oriole, but not the Black-capped Vireo--though I swear I heard them in the bushes. The place had gone through an awful flood July 2002 and there were scrapbooks of pictures at Neal's Lodge. Looked like most cabins had no occupants. I'd like to go there for a week or so and pick up some of the trash along the trails. Would do the same at Chalk Bluff!

Walked down by the Nueces River in the AM and managed to see (maybe) several Green Kingfishers--at least a pair--which we saw up close. Watched two hounds chase at Mouflon ram on the cliff across the river and later discovered that the ram had taken refuge in a cliff where the hounds could not reach. He was still there late in the day. Mouflon sheep are an Asian exotic and they are wild hereabouts. One unusual find we especially appreciated was a Golden-cheeked Warbler, up in the high live oak canopy, hundred year old trees, of the campground. Golden-cheeked warblers are almost never seen outside their range in the Edwards Plateau nearby. Also, Yellow-throated Warblers, Nashville, Tennessee, Yellow-rumped. Scissor-tails were hanging from the wires--a beautiful touch.

April 10, 2003 To Rockport and Goose Island State Park on the coast. Road near Sinton especially narrow, it seemed. Asked for site next to bird sanctuary and got it, only to find it overrun with hanging caterpillars. Decided to head for Gulf site and got one on the end. There are two camping areas here, in the oaks and out on the beach. The woodsy sites are quite private, but in the spring there can be godzillions of caterpillars--which was the case this year. A bit of confusion when another party claimed to have the site but it worked itself out. Large Mexican party is next door, radios blaring, many fishing poles poised along the water, kids streaming all over the place. Weather cloudy, not many birds about, especially in bird sanctuary. Only one warbler noted on bird sheet.

April 11, 2003. Went for a bird walk early, but few birds. Did see a female Black-headed Grosbeak, usually found farther west. No warblers, but did hear a Northern Parula. Went in town to do errands--PO, getting Ms Roo lubed, visiting new HEB supermarket. After dinner we took a great walk along the beach, found a Seaside Sparrow who sang to us for a whole long time, saw BB and Fulvous Whistling Ducks, Ruddy Turnstones, Forster's Terns, more. Our neighbors were loud and their music jarred Ms K 'Roo considerably. Tried to get staff to help us if the same happens another night.

April 12, 2003. After a waterside bird walk we took off for Aransas Pass--both the Birding Center and Paradise Cove. Best birding so far. Five warblers at Paradise--Black and White, N Parula, Black-throated Green, Common Yellowthroat, and more. At the Water Treatment plant we found the little Least Bittern again, saw Glossy and White Ibis, numerous nutria, Black-neck Stilts, more. Happened to meet a lady from St Ignacious (Montana) named Carolyn. In the evening we went over to Fourth St. Pond to watch the herons roost, but all we saw was a few night herons going off to work. Our guess is that this year there is so much water everywhere that the birds are disbursed.

April 13, 2003. Drove up to Aransas NWR. What was so very dry last year is now supersaturated. Jones Lake, where last year there was only grass growing, is now part of what looks like a river. Of course, now with so many places for waterfowl to go, they are not concentrated anywhere and are disbursed. No beautiful Spoonbills at Jones Lake. Took the scope up the lookout and saw nothing in particular--no cranes, though we were told that about 100 still haven't left for Canada. Drove around the Loop Road and walked along Rail Trail---hardly any birds anywhere. We did see a javelina and some feral hogs along the way. On the way home we went down to the experimental pond past Fulton, and again, there were hardly any birds, and ditto for the bird blind here at Goose Island. Extended for one more day and will leave Goose Island SP on Tuesday.

April 14th, 2003. Got our income tax stuff out at the Fulton PO, then went to the library and caught up on e-mail. Decided to run down to Corpus to look at laptops. We picked out a Compaq at Circuit City plus a new carrying case. (The creaky old one just wasn't able to hold anywhere near enough photos and journal entries, although otherwise it is still doing fine.) Drove home by Mustang Island and stopped again at Paradise Cove where we saw a lot of Summer Tanagers, N. Parulas, Black and Whites and beautiful Indigo Buntings. We spoke with a pleasant gentleman who counts birds there a couple hours each day--he lives next door. All of a sudden, a whole army of Elderhostel birders descended on this little boardwalk, with scopes and all their correct paraphernalia! Actually, many eyes were better for seeing more birds but I definitely prefer quiet places with fewer folks!

April 15th, 2003. Left early for Galveston Island. So humid outside. Upon arrival we found a space in the bayside area, thank goodness. Just after we'd lodged, a neighbor man in a tent trailer charged over at me and rudely told me we'd parked incorrectly (front end first) and didn't want us to be in his face, and we didn't do it "the way we do in Texas…" Moved over one space, front end first. Charlie did a lot of re-wiring in Ms Roo and now we don't have to use batteries for the radios.

The birding not the same as last year, but we did see many Orchard Orioles in one tree, numerous Eastern Kingbirds in another, some Baltimore Orioles, numerous Scissors-tail Flycatchers, one Eastern Wood Peewee and one male Painted Bunting. The Crested Caracaras are still here.

April 16, 2003. Off for Bolivar Flats and were not disappointed by the number of peeps, plovers, gulls, etc. Met a couple men who told us of a great woods for birding about 7 miles north, behind a sand company. We spotted it but refrained form walking in on private property. Visited the North Jetty--nothing astonishing there--then tried to get into the woods near the Coast Guard station on the Galveston side of the ferry, but it was closed and the road was barricaded--evidently some sort of a security measure. Later we visited Lafitte Woods and had our usual type of good luck there--Worm-eating Warbler, Blue-winged, Kentucky, Black-throated Green, plus others. Again, we met friendly, helpful and knowledgeable birders there.

April 17, 2003. The birding not nearly as good as yesterday--both at the state park and Lafitte. Orioles seem to have left and the number of wood warblers is greatly reduced. Got the laundry done. Wandered down several nearby lanes--Eight Mile Road, Twelve Mile road.

April 18, 2003. The campground is filling up to capacity and beyond. A whole contingent is creating a new city here, it seems. We biked through the swamp area and then went over to visit with Leesa and Tim Panto in their trailer. This couple comes from the Catskill area of NY but lived near Austin for 6 years. They are ardent birders like we are and we seem to have similar world views!

April 19, 2003. We started out at Lafitte but found Leesa and Tim coming out. Spoke with a couple who had visited Quintana Beach and I decided on the spot that we should go there. The four of us piled into Tim's truck and we discovered a lovely small area with gorgeous flowers and a fine stand of trees. Didn't see anything we hadn't discovered before but it was nice to have active birding since it wasn't at Galveston. The Black-throated Green and Worm-eating and Hooded Warblers could be seen, along with a Northern Waterthrush and Scarlet Tanager and Summer Tanagers. We then went to the South Jetty where the Purple Sandpiper was supposedly hanging out, and there he was, right as described. Fortunately, we had looked at our books and knew not to look for purple!

Took time off for dinner out, then retreated to Lafitte. Got to see many Indigo Buntings, plus the Painted Bunting and the usual (but slim) array of birdies. Finally, got to see the Swamp Sparrow, a hard one to find. Went around the nearby neighborhood and found two small lakes we hadn't known about before. The weather is sooo humid but so far, no rain.

April 20, 2003. This morning we met with a 8:30 AM Sunday birding group at the park, which started out slowly but picked up with many eyes on the trees. Even got to see a Blackburnian Warbler, and the Roseate Spoonbills at the end pond were magnificent, too. Drove to Wally's World (WalMart) for last-minute stuff to continue our travels. The sky darkened like it was night and we were lucky to get our purchases in the motor home before the rain and thunder and lightning hit. After the storm was over, out we went to Lafitte and there was an amazing array of birds--and quite a lot of folks, as well. Among the species we saw were Orchard and Baltimore Orioles by the tree-full, lots of Tennesee Warblers, a Northern Waterthrush, Blackburnian, Chestnut-sided, Black and White, Black-throated Green Warblers, flocks of Green Herons making squawking noises, Rose-Breasted Grosbeaks, buntings, various flycatchers, and more. Just missed seeing a Yellow-billed Cuckoo. Leesa and Tim came to our place for dessert.

April 21, 2003. Dashed over to Lafitte again since the previous evening was so great. The woods were full of birds but we saw no new birds. Nice to see such activity, though. Said 'bye to Leesa and Tim and then took off ourselves for Sea Rim via High Island.

High Island, after being pretty slow for many days, seemed very alive. It was a good birding day; we found the Cerulian Warbler, the Swainson's Warbler and the little Ovenbird, aside from numerous other warblers and vireos. As always, met friendly and helpful folks who just happened to point things out. It was so amusing to see a whole hoard of folks--me included---rush over to the bathroom area when a lady declared that there was a Swainson's Warbler lurking there in the woods. The Boy Scout Woods rookery was truly amazing, since it has now spread way out across the marsh and was still going strong in the high shrubs. I had a good time sharing the scope with other birders. What a treat to see the mating dances and the nesting and the babes of all those hundreds of birds out there. Hard to leave, as always.

Arrived at Sea Rim, down the road from Sabine Pass, past 6 PM; they had no instructions for late comers so we just parked and I grumbled about the lack of attention to park users, particularly new ones. (Site 15, $12) Once it got dark, mosquitoes were fierce. I am thinking we need to keep West Nile Virus in mind and use lots of bug dope.

April 22, 2003. Rose early, waited for the office to open, then went to Sabine Woods, a few miles east. What a wonderful woods and what incredible birding. Birdies on every limb, it seemed. We managed to see fourteen different warblers: N Parula, Cerulian, Worm-eating, Yellow-rumped, American Redstart, Common Yellow-throat, Prothonotary, KY, TN, Waterthrush, Hooded, Chestnut-sided, Magnolia, Blue-wing. Along with Yellow Billed Cuckoo, Brown Thrashers, Rose Breasted Grosbeaks, Indigo Buntings, Green Herons, Veery, Hermit and Swainson's Thrushes, several flycatchers, and two snakes in ponds.

At the PO, the woman was so excited that we came from MT that she talked on and on about her experiences in our state. Such a fun conversation. It rained for a while and afterwards we caught more bird life at the willow tree section of Sea Rim, then went back to Sabine till we were tired--and it got dark. Signed up for an extra night here.

April 23, 2003. Made the rounds of the good spots we'd visited yesterday but the pace had slowed. One great find was a Blackburnian Warbler, though! Went up to Port Arthur to use their library computers. What frustration--they had divided keyboards and no mice. I nearly went crazy trying to delete the hundreds of spam messages and making the touch system work. Got dismissed from the machine before I was anywhere near ready to go, but it probably was a blessing.

Wind is blowing like crazy--bad weather and even tornadoes are predicted for this part of the world. We just tied down a neighbor's tent that was about to blow away--the stakes were pulled up and the rain flap was off. We're closely watching the Weather Channel s the wind buffets Ms Roo. Another task had Charley making heroic attempts to get our home voice mail to work: CenturyTel had altered their system between our mail drops, and to boot had printed out a wrong number for those who changed to their system at a later date. C was in touch with folks in about five states before they got it all resolved. Often wonder how people who make such basic mistakes can stay in business--or where is QA these days??

April 24, 2003. Overnight C was really sick but managed to visit the woods in the morning. Humidity is up around 100 percent but we were lucky not to have encountered the predicted severe thunder storms or tornadoes, which did happen nearby in TX. Could use some rain to get the salt off the vehicles, but little fell in the afternoon. Drove through McFadden NWR on a patched dirt road along the inter-coastal waterway, then walked around the willows and the mulberry trees along the road. Not a real active bird day but still a nice environment. Started to make further travel plans--signed up one more night at Sea Rim and then made reservations for Saturday at Miles Dies Jr. State Park in the Big Thicket area.

April 25, 2003. Set out early to get to Sabine NWR over in LA. En route we stopped at the Hollyman-Sheely Sanctuary run by the Baton Rouge Audubon group, a wooded area recommended to us by a man we met in Galveston. (Across LA Hwy 82 from Stingray Compression plant on N side of hwy) The woods were indeed dense, many (today verymuddy) trails around a small lake, and it was nearly impossible to see bird life up there--but it's nice to see land like this preserved. (There was a Nature Conservancy area adjoining). Moved on to Sabine and saw many orioles, mostly Orchard. Lucked into seeing a Least Bittern, Scarlet Tanager, and more. On the way home, we took a local road out of Sabine Pass which took us along a bayou and the coastal waterway. All kinds of shipping-related companies along the water; there were oil rigs being serviced, all manner of large cranes nearby. Passed a fishing fleet and a Coast Guard station. Best of all were trees full of Baltimore orioles--and we spent lots of time trying to get good photos of them. I think we failed but had fun trying--they seem to have a knack for ducking behind branches!

Later, went to Sabine Woods again and found some folks who had been looking at a Golden-winged Warbler. A lady made the effort to come get us when she fund where it was, and we got to see another Life Bird--so beautiful. This community is generally so helpful and upbeat. Also, we were able to see a Blackpoll Warbler with the assistance of another group nearby.

April 26, 2003. Dashed off to the woods and the willows before leaving Sea Rim. The willows especially had hot and cold running warblers and C got s few photos of the Blackburnian Warbler, Golden-winged and Black-throated Green. On another day we found a Common Nighthawk sleeping on a branch.

Waited for ages for an older couple to use the dump station (how do these folks get through life??) then headed for Port Arthur and north on Rt. 96. We are now on our way home. Despite one mistake (route markers missing) we got to Martin Dies Jr. SP outside Jasper in late afternoon--stops at Wally's World and car wash. This is a very large park on a reservoir, and it's divided in two sections, one across the road from the other. Mostly large pines and beech trees. Campsites are fairly generous. Many on waterways.

April 27, 2003. Took a 9 AM nature hike with a man named Buddy Hollis, a volunteer who is knowledgeable about trees and plants and birds in this area. Funds no longer exist in TX parks for paid staff to do programs of this sort. We were shown all manner of trees and plants--loblolly pines, other pines, cyprus, birch, ironwoods, yaupon, Jack-in-the-Pulpit, mayberry, more. Not so much emphasis on birds but we got several pointers of where to go to see what we're looking for--namely, the Brown-headed Nuthatch, the Bachman Sparrow, the Swallow-tail Kite. One that we decided to look for (although we have seen it in years past) was the Red-cockaded Woodpecker, an endangered species. So we took a ride up to Sam Rayburn Dam but missed the right spot we'd wanted. There was apparently a bass fishing contest going on this weekend and for some reason there were about two miles of cars and trucks parked along the roadside and folks swarming over to whatever was happening. Went south again to Jasper and then to a couple Corp of Engineer parks, one of which had received no visible maintenance for quite a long time. Birded there till the bugs really go to us. Returned to Dies Park and changed sites to #80 on the headquarters side. Huge site with real estate facing west on the water. Most people headed home today.

April 28, 2003. Went down to the Big Thicket Nature Center on Rt 69. Spoke at length with an old-time volunteer named Judy who is quite an historian for this area. She told us stories of the cast of characters who have changed and managed this area: politicians and lumber companies and the constant tussle to keep the BigThicket intact, even though it is quite fragmented. The budget for the National Park Service (who administers this area) is down 40% this year. Also, they are trying to put together a few hundred acres to reach the river behind the center. We hiked around the Kirby Nature Trail which was longer than we'd expected--3 miles or so--and it led us through the typical BifTThicket forest of birch, magnolia, beech, etc. Later walked on Gore Store Road to find Bachman's and Brown-headed Nuthatches, but failed at both. Also drove down a long dirt road which never seemed to have an end, then went on lengthy back road to get back to 69. Did find a cuckoo in our campsite--I'm wondering if it was a Black-billed.

April 29, 2003. Drove three hours up to Caddo Lake State Park that had been recommended to us. Found a small park, definitely underwhelmed, in a nice woods--but no lake. There was a slough nearby but only tenting sites were near it. We got a roomy woodsy site but realized later that it's quite near a highway and the noise is great. One more disappointment was having our enthusiasm heightened for a good catfish dinner but finding both restaurants we knew of closed Mon. and Tues. Drove around "the neighborhood" for a while and both got the feeling that it's hard to keep buildings in good repair in this climate, and that local folks are not looking very friendly to us outsiders. One nearby town is named "Uncertain", believe it or not, and I shot a pic of the sign for "Church of Uncertain". Also, another religious signboards which amused us. Revised our expectation of a two-day stay here and now have numerous map books before us.

April 30, 2003. To Daisy State Park, past Texarcana up in SW Arkansas. The campsites are located along two "peninsulas" with the ends overlooking Lake Greeson (#23, $8.50 w/Golden Age Pass). Our site has a nice view and some nice trees. There are a number of COE parks in this area, as well. Again, we notice that these parks are looking worse for wear.

A couple of Eastern Kingbirds have been working here all afternoon. We notice that the weather is somewhat less muggy than it has been farther south.

May 1, 2003. Took a dog's hind leg route up to Lake Dardanelle State Park near Russelville, AR, about 110 miles. WE agree that mush of this rolling countryside reminds us of Pennsylvania. No sites on the water available but found a site wedged on a small circle (#**, $8.40 with Senior Pass). Large lake nearby, many boaters. Large, fancy visitors center about to open -- maybe some kinda pork for this state in these tough economic times?? Decided to make reservations in advance for the weekend and got the only site available, a cancellation, at Bull Shoals State Park up near the MO border. Watched the weather channels real well as large thunder storms and tornadoes came into this general vicinity--just north of us.

May 2, 2003. I managed to back into two stout trash cans as I backed up the Subie!

We drove up and around a number of mountains--such curving roads, somewhat like NZ. The day was misty so we couldn't see over the many layers of hills. Acid rain has taken its toll on the trees at the summit of the largest mountain, about 2000' up. Drove through the town of Booger Hollow which had a large sign "Booger Hollow, Arkansas; Population 7, counting one hound dog".

Bull Shoal State Park is a lot nicer than we'd expected and we got one of the best sites overlooking the White River. Sites in our area are spaced decently, there are some shade trees around, and the picnic table sits out where the view is best. Rode bikes around the park and finally down to the nearby dam--which is, of course, now closed to the public.

May 3, 2003. Looking at the weather channel and seeing tornadoes and severe thunder storms aimed wherever we may be tomorrow. Not a comfortable feeling. Chose a state park in MO and will plan to stay two days. Today we got paperwork and laundry and a bit of shopping done (stores down here seem never to have heard of rice crackers or Ry Krisp, and it's difficult to find soy milk or skim milk. No anchor bread, of course. (Anchor bread is Annie bread--she likes the multi-grained stuff so thick and heavy you can use in for a dinghy anchor.)

Watched the White River here recede quite a bit--guess less power is required over weekends--just a guess. Another time the level of the river rose quickly and surprised two fishermen who had wandered to the other bank. They started back and soon the water rose well above their waders--like to their necks--and we laughed watching them slog homeward.

May 4, 2003. We were getting set to leave when I confessed to feeling some fear about mowing up toward MO with the weather predictions as they were. Decided to stay put rather than risk being on the road during possible heavy thunder storms and/or tornadoes. Had to move from our site--we were told it was reserved-- to a non-river site, one where we could use the satellite and watch the weather channel. Areas in Kansas and Missouri are, it seems, being devastated. Where we are there is no place to run to. As it turned out, we had a quiet humid night with not even a drop of rain.

May 5, 2003. After waiting behind another amusingly inept RV dumper, took off for MO, mostly using Rt 5. Just above Lebanon, MO we ran into an area which had been pretty well destroyed by the tornadoes yesterday. Roofs were blown off, buildings collapsed, large trees broken off, homes demolished. Many people were standing around, police and others on hand. Traffic had to pass through the area slowly and it gave one a lot to think about, certainly.

Fortunately, the GPS and Topo got us to Lake of the Ozarks, because along the way we saw a couple other signs for this huge park (over 17,000 acres). There are accommodations for horses here, an old heritage barn, fishing piers, and way down the road a sprawling 180-plus site campground with some very nice sites. We chose a place down by the lake (reservoir) and are off by ourselves on a woodsy end site. Non-electric sites cost $7, no entrance fee. Watching the TVs getting settled in for the night and the Yellow-throated Vireos attacking the jaybird.

May 6, 2003. Spent a long time in the am deciding where to move Ms Roo since more severe storms were forecast and C discovered a dead tree right next to us. Rode round and round to find a spot with the best of safety features and also TV availability. Really sick to be leaving the nicest site of the park, sight on the lake.

What a tiring and confusing afternoon/evening, with very severe thunderstorms predicted, and tornado warnings. We listened to Igor constantly and marked in yellow in the Rand McNally where the various storms were passing. (Igor is our name for the National Weather Services automated radio system. "Igor" is the nickname given by the weather people themselves for the automated text reader that they use. It was supposed recently upgraded recently to improve it's readability, but now seems even worse to me.) There was a whole cluster of marks close of Osage Beach and Camdenton near us (Camden Co.) As the weather grew uglier, we pulled in the slider and then drove up to the largest bathroom in the area to sit out the worst of the storm. Golf ball size hail descended, and thunder and lightning banged and flashed. All at once you know that there's not a darn thing you can do to save the motor home so you just let go and watch the storm. The campground hosts had a sweet little dog, which quietly shook and found solace under the sinks in the men's room--where we hung out. Eventually, the worst of the storm subsided, we returned and found the motor home intact, though the car got some substantial dings. Later, we returned to the bathroom once again when the sky turned black, but the large hail did not return. Tornado warnings are up till 1 AM. For some reason the TV is not working after the first storm so we don't know what lies ahead for tomorrow.

A sort of rag-tag group of three young people from NJ insisted on taking our abandoned camp spot on the water, and the first storm blew away their tent. They eventually located it but they didn't look like they had any plans for the night when they hung out in the bathroom later on.

May 7, 2003. The night was eerily quiet and sultry. The birds did not sing early in the morning, and even we heard fewer of them. We noticed as we left a very leaf-strewn park that the park crew had already sawed and piled up fallen limbs. We followed Rt. 63 north toward Thousand Hills State Park near Kirksville, MO. Expected to see storm damage around Jeff City but didn't. Amazing to notice the difference in the progression of spring in 180 miles' distance. Here, the leaves have just come out (and it's a lot easier to see the birds--have seen lots of male Rose-breasted Grosbeaks!)

The library directed us to a place called the TeleCenter Network where we were allowed to use their computers for a couple hours ($1/day or $5/year)--great idea. Had dinner out at the King's Table--a Chinese buffet. Came back to a great view at the end of a "peninsula" overlooking the fingers of a pretty lake, and up among budding tree branches Want to explore this park tomorrow but it looks like the poor weather might be following us (we're the bright red circle on the weather channel.) Went to sleep listening to an enormous chorus of peepers--never heard them so loud!

May 8, 2003. One more morning of worrying about weather, listening to the weather channel and Igor. Got in one small walk but bike plans got put on hold. Rain and thunder storms followed plus warnings for tornadoes till 11 PM. What a load of work all these weather guessers are having to perform. Again, the night was quiet.

May 9, 2003. Since the TV refused to work yesterday (overhanging limb, we think) we had no idea of what the weather bag had in store for us. Took off for Iowa hoping for the best. Drove up Rt. 63 and 142 through a lot of green, hilly country, Amish farms and other farmland--albeit mostly unplanted at this point. Glad to see that the small farm still exists here.

Rock Creek State Park is sort of a laid-back place on a substantial lake, teeming with Canada Geese and their numerous prodigy. Got a site on the lake--it is not at all crowded. Leaves on the trees are not entirely out yet and birds are fairly easy to spot. We were delighted to see a Palm Warbler, a beautiful Myrtle Warbler and a Magnolia. Rode bikes to a spot across the lake and met a man of 32 who is in the Army. Talked for a long time about his life and his values and I felt I'd learned a whole lot about so much.

(Onward to part 3)

(For more photos)