costa rica part 2

Lunch with Giavanna who is trying to change our plans of going to San Jose tomorrow and seeing what she can do about getting us to Tortuguera by boat from Puerto Viejo. Later walked the paths around SV and came upon a tree crawling with daddy long-legs--hundreds of them. Truly an amazing sight. Went back home for the camera. Went across the street and met a German/Canadian photographer who helped us ID a Golden-headed Tanager while he was trying to photer White-collared Manakins. He told us about a good birding place nearly called Tirimbina outside of Los Virgens (tel. 906-9080). Fine rainforest area.

Feb. 17, Tues. Squeezed in as much bird watching as possible. The morning bird walk was crowded and very productive, as well. We saw orapendulas, aracaris, toucans and much more. One more highlight was watching two green Poison Dart Frogs mating, on and on and on till we finally left after snapping photers.

Packed for trip to San Jose after having the receptionist at SelvaVerde give us vouchers for a trip to Tortuguera. She was extremely helpful.

We got to the bus in Puerto Viejo with little time to spare. Trip was little more than 1 ¾ hours. We rode in the highlands and the temp decreased considerably. There was mist over the mountains and expansive views into lush green valleys. At the bus terminal we caught a cab to the Hemingway where we were attended by a woman who was not friendly. We were assigned room #10 just off the living room--and a huge step up after we opened the door. The room was cramped, the bathroom sort of a miniature afterthought, the windows right at sidewalk level, traffic noise loud and a piercing construction noise next door. Finding no help with planning, we found our way to Discount Travel Costa Rica Nature Escape) on Calle Cinco and met Karen Retana who spent the rest of that afternoon and three hours the following morning helping us piece together the rest of our CR trip. We now have a fist full of vouchers, plane tickets and everything we'll need for the coming two weeks, and we've made reservations at Country Inn and Suites where we're thankfully staying now (with a good discount, thanks to Giovanna).

Feb. 19, Thurs. From San Jose to Villa Lapas Hotel near Cararas. Interbus arrived right on the minute due and it was an easy, efficient way to travel. The bus wasn't full and it had clean windows to see well outside. It delivered us right to the door of Villa Lapas which, similar to Selva Verde, is upscale. Rooms string along lawns with nice shrubs and trees, and a stream runs through the property. There is a trail into the woods which runs along the stream. Meals are served in open air dining rooms and are buffet (note that we later found that each meal cost us about $18--so the room cost was fine but they made it up on meals. And there was no other eating place anywhere near. So this "option" for meals was not really a choice.) . Across a bridge there is a virtual community of (3) craft stores, a church or sorts, a second dining room, and a bar. There is also a nice swimming pool here and two whirlpool pools--which we didn't know about and hadn't brought our suits.

This is a nice place to hang out beneath the trees or walk beside the stream, though this walk in early afternoon is extremely hot and humid. As we walked, cicadas screamed to a deafening pitch--and they actually peed on us! Apparently, they hang around what are called rain trees and what seems like rain drops come down. Found that out the day after the experience. Another tree near here is the sand___ tree which has spikes up the trunk, and fishermen use the bark for throwing into water to toxify fish and make them blind for easy catching. One further ting we learned is that strangler figs start as vines growing from the tree's top, not from the ground. There are several tours here, one an Audubon group from DC. Met a retired librarian named Rita and had several good conversations with her. Got her e mail address.

Feb. 20, Friday. Guide Elliott met us at 6:30 AM and we went for a three hour bird walk at Cararas P. First ting we saw right above the road were two Scarlet Macaws. No words can adequately describe the elegant coloration of this great squawking parrot. Early on, into the forest, we were able to spot a handful of Orange-collared Manakins, maybe even more beautiful than their cousins the White-collared ones. These, too, did a courting dance and sounded like branches snapping. Unfortunately, there was a large tour group following us and Elliott wanted to get us to a lagoon before they arrived--so we kind of hustled, yet saw a fine number of old and new species. There were Boat-billed Herons, Jacanas, Purple Gallinules, Anhingas and many more birds there, as well as crocodiles.

The Interbus again arrived right on the minute and we had a good trip back to San Jose (in a van-type bus this time,) Sorted out stuff once again--not entirely simple- and put one and put stuff to go in one suitcase, then put the other bag plus the green expansion bag into storage here because we have an early departure hour tomorrow AM for Tortuguero.

Feb. 21 Sat. A bus came and picked us up around 6 AM right on time. We were the second folks to be scooped up and there were about six more spots. Our guide Kattiya introduced each group member each time anyone arrived--and she was a marvel at remembering names. We then headed out of San Jose the same way we had come down from Puerto Viejo, only this time we veered right (east) and headed toward Guapiles, then on to Cana Blanca (not on the map). On the way we stopped at a Del Monte banana packing plant where we were able to observe the bananas coming in from the field. After being cut from the tree (green), they are hung on a trolley affair and 20 or so are pulled by a human donkey to the processing plant usually - several kilometers away. They then are cut into bunches (such as you see in the grocery, sorted, and then thrown on a conveyor belt. Singles will go directly into a large trailer truck (destination unknown, probably in-country markets), and rejects go into a smaller trailer (destination also unknown - evidently used on the plantation) The stems are cut up and go into another big trailer and apparently are used along with the trees themselves for fiber such as paper. (We think it's mostly toilet paper). The sorted bananas are then dumped into vats of chemicals which retard ripening. The strength of the chemical is dependant on how far they are shipped. After being fished out of the vats, two women were putting the little labels on each bunch as they progressed to the packers who managed to fit about fifteen bunches into each box, lined with plastic. A packer working all day draws about $15 in pay. Numerous workers come from Nicaragua and other parts of Costa Rica to work and are given small houses to live in. The bananas receive preservative chemicals in differing amounts, according to how far they have to travel in what amount of time. They are packed after specific orders are received and are shipped the same day (from Limon) they are put into boxes.

At Cana Banca, we boarded a covered boat and up the river we went down to the confluence of the intercoastal waterway, then north to Mawamba Lodge, about an hour or so. They are very fast boats, making triple the time of the buses, considering the crooked roads, traffic, etc. Gorgeous day, but the weather can turn at any time - this is the wettest part of Costa Rica, 8 feet or so of rain each year. The waterway was built many years ago to ship out all the logs from this tropical rainforest, but the forests are gone and siltation from all the deforestation has rendered the south part of it totally unusable. The latest large earthquake helped silt the waterways a great deal and many are being dredged out. Local boats use the canals as a highway (but most traffic is tourist boats, now proceeding one after the other.)

Sunday, February 22, 2004 Mawamba is another attractive resort (never have gone to such places in our own country!) with clean, connected cabins on lush grounds. Many trees and plantings, a swimming pool with waterfall, outdoor dining room and more. Ocean close by (but because of rips were have been cautioned not to swim there). During the days we were there, we went on four boat trips--one to the nearby village of Tortuguero and the others along jungle canals. Two were early AM trips to experience jungle life when it's most active--the noises of the birds and howler monkeys are unique indeed. Aside from the birds on our list, we saw a whole retinue of iguanas and lizards, howler monkeys, spider monkeys, a boa constrictor. This is not turtle season, and if it was the beaches would be closed and tourist folks would be able to walk on them only in limited numbers and only with guides at night.

Our group consisted of about five folks from Canada, a family of four from Finland, a couple from Spain and the rest Americanos. About 20 in all.

Wed, February 25. Back from Tortuguero. Stopped for lunch at the same spot, missed seeing the beauty of Braulio Carrillo NP because of low clouds. Dropped folks all over San Jose, and we were last off the bus. The hotel's generator was belching smoke and making a gigantic noise--hardly a good sign! Our room is quite small and nearby teenagers are doing their thing. We drag stuff from suitcases and reorganize for Osa.

Thurs., February 26. Got a cab to the SANSA (domestic--inside Costa Rica) terminal (near to the larger air terminal) and found that our 9:30 flight to Palmar Sur had been cancelled because that airport had been closed down! But--we were scheduled to fly to Drake Bay, not far from the Corcavado Tent Camp we'd be going to. This meant that we'd miss a great boat trip scheduled, but what the hey…and we go with the flow. Charlie makes calls to travel agent, tent camp and all, gets little recognition or understanding, and then tries three times to get through to the Richards. We use the credit card and it seems like the call will go through, but it fails at the end. Time after time. As he thinks he finally is getting through, the airport guy (this crowded little terminal is the definition of chaos) points at me and gestures that we should get aboard--this being 30 minutes before the flight is slated to leave! So we get on to the 12 passenger plane and off we go to Drake Bay--which is a dirt strip in the middle of nowhere. A few vans are lined up nearby and eventually we're jumping into the green one, and after some confusion about what boat will get us to the tent camp, we wait patiently for an hour and around the corner comes a motor boat. We watch it back toward the shore, maneuvering with and around every wave (not a simple process), and eventually we are told to jump on quickly, which we do, with warm sea water nearly up to our waists. Our suitcase is hoisted aboard, along with some other gear like boxes of soft drinks and coolers, and we're off to wherever we're going. In about 15 minutes we spot some green tents on shore, and that's where the boat heads. After another siege of getting off at the right time we're met on the beach by Fernando, who runs the camp. He is warm and welcoming and shows us to our tent. This "home" is a large wall tent beneath a large protective tarp, all on a wooden platform. Inside is a single and double bed and a set of shelves in between. A porch is in front with two chairs, and it looks out over trees to the ocean, quite close. There are about 15 tents, each somewhat private from the others. It is truly beautiful, and the sound of the sea at night is amazing.

Meals are in an open dining room and are served family style. We're still not sure who was the cook, but we know she got up early in the AM and presented attractive and plentiful meals. No real schedule for breakfast or lunch, dinner at 6:30. Box lunches provided for those on tours to Corcavado Park or elsewhere. There are about ten campers, or less, there but the place will be fully booked just after we leave. Till the end of our stay, most of the campers are young--two from England, some from Canada, one from Holland, a family of 4 from France. Bathrooms showers are behind the dining area, and those of us who have to make several nightly trips in the dark met up with some large cane toads and a myriad of other nightly bugs. Many stories! Oh--at one meal I was asking Fernando about a couple things on our plate (one item I thought might be bread fruit but was yucca). Another green veggie he told me was cheyote, and he me mentioned Mr. Cheyote as being mean and grouchy. He said he's show us what he meant--and in about 10 minutes Fernando reappeared with this large green veggie with carrot and garlic eyes and toothpicks sticking out of a "mouth" for teeth, and more toothpicks for legs.

The heat and humidity are @100 and everything gets pretty damp. We took a trip to the Sirena section of the Corcavado NP--a nearly 2 hour by boat each way, and the walk nearly melts me. After having experienced some fine guides, Gustavo, our guide there, did not meet the mark, but he did point out some interesting birds like the Crested Guan, a Great Tinamou and a Great Curassow--and even a Baird's Trogan! So we were both pleased, and also quite tired since the boat ride home was very bumpy and, bring up front, we had to hold on for a long time. I felt about totaled with the heat and the following day we were slated for another hike, but only about an hour, to Rio Claro. Tony, a young man from Seattle, who is the present English teacher at the nearby school, took us and we had a leisurely walk, discussing his life, the trees and plants and birds and all sorts of subjects. There were a few folks at the Rio but we looked forward to jumping in the cool water. All of a sudden, there appeared a ton of folks, and more and more kept coming. Turns out there was a cruise ship off shore, and these folks had been boated ashore. Many just stood around talking, others ventured into the water, others didn't wish to get their tootsies wet. We swam a little distance from them, and the water was entirely refreshing and lovely. The effect, however, was pretty well worn off after the trek home.

We felt somewhat sad to leave this beautiful spot where we watched the waves splash upon rocks and admired gentle sunsets in the distance. It was a place of peace. The trip back was uneventful, though the plane was a bit delayed. The scurrying around the airstrip was amusing and while waiting I met an interesting woman, Suzanne Methvin, who plans eco-tours. She got me all excited about birding in Equador!

Sunday, Feb. 28. Written as the lights of the hotel again go off and do their flickering act. Today, our one free day, was planned for La Paz Falls. With staff help we lined up a cab driver---cost of trip to and from $50, high but in the long run worth it to us. The cab was on time but in short order we found that this man was not going to do a round trip, or if he did he would charge $10 more--and leave for home at noon, rather than 3 PM. No, we said, so we ended giving him $30 for his driving even though he said he wouldn't be returning for us, even if we'd wanted him to. The closer we got to Poas, the grimmer became the weather and the thicker the clouds. It was sincerely raining when we arrived and of course we wondered if we should have attempted to recreate an experience which was so gorgeous the first time. But onward. We watched birds on the banana feeders and spied one(s) we'd missed before--the beautiful Silver-throated Tanagers. With raincoats zippered up, we walked down to the hummingbird area, stood under fixed 'brellas and just watched the little hummers come and go. The butterfly area showed us the butterflies with wings closed, riding out the wetness. We wondered what folks new to this place thought and pitied their not knowing the beauty of the area as a whole, while of course loving the beautiful flowers all about, close at hand. Visibility zero! During lunch we sat at the one outdoor table not drenched in rain. Decided to return by the 1:15 bus to San Jose, then taxi home. Saved a bunch over the cab fare, but didn't have the time we'd wanted at the falls. Bus ride the usual dance of traffic on narrow roads--much honking and passing. We feel like veterans here by now.

Since our room hadn't been made up yet (@5PM) we sat outside near the pool and watched female teenie-boppers pose and preen and take each others' pics--at least those in the skimpiest bikinis did. Then came a wave of pre-adolescent males splashing and jumping and shouting. Fun watching. Wonder how all these young groups afford such digs. Some American, the 14s-going-on 24s were foreign. Again, we repack for an early start tomorrow. Our stuff is just getting dry from the humidity of the Osa.

While the power blinks here, we made a list of the dubious stuff which has been happening at this hotel. Aside from power interruptions, we had one room with no phone (they're supposed to be in both room and bath); no Kleenex this time; once they led us to an uncleaned room; today our room took over 2 hours to clean; Charlie was told that there was not change at the desk for the drinks machine; the Internet computer spit both of us out and we had the dickens of a time making the password work--and then got a load of porn when trying to access Yahoo; we've endured masses of teeny-boppers yelling and slamming doors at al hours; the pool cleaner man takes hours to clean the pool yet hasn't picked up an old beer can lying nearby for several days; lamp bulbs are hanging at a weird angle (C has righted them easily); our bathroom hot water in the sink is off because of need of a washer; the hair dryer nearby dangles at a weird angle; it takes the desk staff lengths of time to discover and rediscover who we are--and it's hard to convince them that we're not on a tour--and there's more I can't think of now! The dining room crew seem to be pretty pleasant and efficient!

From La Paz, on Sunday AM we went to Sevegre, or La Montana de Sevegre Lodge up in the Talamanca Mountains, about a two hour drive from San Jose. A nice driver picked us up in front of the National Theater down town, along with another Tico couple who were spending their honeymoon at the same place. The farther into the mountains we got, the mistier it got and we thought well, so far we've been lucky weather-wise, so maybe this is our time to deal with the wet stuff. But after turning off the main highway we crept for numerous kilometers down a steep, curvy road, and the sun appeared and enjoyed views of the valley and steep mountains to the sides. On and on we went till the driver at last turned left over a bridge and up to Sevegre Lodge. Our room wasn't quite ready so we watched hummingbirds from the dining room area. There were many feeders out there and we finally got some of those little hummers straightened out in our minds--not easy! Our room was an end unit, No. 15, up a bumpy walk, through many pretty bushes and plants. Almost immediately, right outside, appeared a gorgeous little bird which we then learned was a Collared Redstart. We took its picture, and strangely enough, it appeared there again just as we were leaving.

We signed up for a birdwatching trip the following morning and were accompanied by Doris and Phil Brody from Bethesda, MD. Phil was more interested in fotering the Quetzel, so our guide, Martino, left him at the best spot for that while the rest of us climbed up and down nearby woods (after enjoying some incredible Quetzel views ourselves. This man had an eye and birds we could never hope to see, let alone identify. We sometimes used his scope and he ran through and around the woods trying to lure the various birds in our direction. We missed, narrowly, seeing the Collared Trogan but added numerous wonderful birdies to our list. I especially liked the name "Ocraceous Wren"!

The valley was apparently owned by Martino's family and was a finca (farm). Plums and apples are grown there (and are enjoyed by birds as well as people). Not far from the lodge is a path leading through woods down to a camping area, attractive and clean, overlooking the Sevegre River (Sevegre means water holding area). This is a well-known fly fishing area and we could see huge numbers of trout in the stream--there was always trout on the menu, as well. The Quetzels hung out farther down the road.

We walked up the road to an attractive building which is an experimental station, housing folks who are researching the plants and animals and weather of the area. It seems that most of the project is underwritten by the Church of the Nazarene. The people who started it and got it built are Zena and Leo. Zena showed us around this immaculate and beautifully decorated place and Leo came in later and helped us to ID a Volcano Hummingbird in his garden.

From this point onward, we kept no further notes. We had a good trip back to San Jose where we were soon on our way back to San Antonio to eventually join up with the motor home in Junction and from there continue onward on our spring journey.

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(More photos of part 2)