|
2006 Fall Trip South (part #2) |
|
October 14, 2006 (Saturday) Canyonlands (Squaw Flats) to Blanding, UT (Devils Canyon) 60 miles. Rained as we left. Most sites taken, so we did someone a large favor. Took the mountain road to the little town of Monticello, gassed up ($2.65/gal.), continued down the pike to Devil's Canyon (BLM) campground north of Blanding, UT. Drove to Hovenweep (means 'deserted valley"), an area of many archeological sites--pueblos--which were abandoned around 700 years ago. These dwellings, built in many shapes were built on the canyon rim or on top of large boulders--not easy to get to. The stone work is beautiful and the valley setting is quite lovely. Watched jays and bushtits in the junipers. Drove back on a different road in Indian territory; unfortunately, the roadsides are trashed. Such a contrast to Canyonlands where you cannot find a piece of litter anywhere. Stopped for groceries in Blanding but could find no beer--it was either 4 miles in one direction or 21 miles in another! |




|
October 15, 2006 (Sunday) Blanding, UT (Devils Canyon) to Hite Crossing (Glen Canyon NRA), UT, 87 miles. We'd hoped to visit Mesa Verde, but the mileage was too high for a day trip. So en route to our overnight stop we drove through Natural Arches NM, this year did no hiking. Spent the night all by ourselves at Hite, an abandoned ferry landing on the Colorado. The level of the lake was way down and it looks all but impossible to boat there. October 16, 2006 (Monday) Glen Canyon NRA to Fruita, UT (Capitol Reef NP) 88 miles. Started out early, noticing much road damage along the way--a testament to the recent record rainfalls. There were numerous sites available when we got here around 10:30 (it was full toward evening); took one facing a field. A man came up and spoke to us--recognizing us by the solar panels he'd seen Charlie put out two years ago. Looked for ladders and apple pickers in the orchards but there were none Asked a ranger about this and he said the season was done--even though there were some great apples left fairly high--a supposed "liability". I secured permission to take any I could find, promising I would not climb the trees! We managed to come home with two plastic grocery bags full, and as always, these legacy apples are incredibly tasty. Decided to drive the motor home to Torrey, 11 miles distant, to get propane, since the weather report is not so good--rain and snow mixture! As usual, the lady at the Texaco station had to make numerous calls to find the propane guy, but now we're ready to sit out whatever comes upon us here. Called and made reservations for both Kodachrome Basin and Zion. October 17, 2006 (Tuesday) Fruita Campground, Capitol Reef NP Whoa! Did that weather ever change. Temps lowered over 30 degrees, it rained, thunder shook us significantly during the night, and there's snow not far above us. The road through the Gorge here is closed, apparently because of flooding. After making applesauce, an annual tradition here, we drove into Torrey again and sat in the book store there. It's an old house built 30 years ago, ceiling rising into a central peak, and with many windows. We sat in comfortable chairs in front of a wood stove, got lattes, got our e mail and journal updated, browsed the bookshelves, most books having to do with celebrating the earth. When the owners died, this place was designated the Entrada (meaning Enter in Peace) Institute, where there are special programs each Saturday, and in summer there are music festivals outside. The deceased owner comes back to "visit" once in a while--reportedly startles folks by flipping a book off a shelf or making himself known in some unique manner. Today our country celebrates having increased its population to 300,000,000 people. Can hardly share any excitement of those heralding this event on TV. |
|
Colorful lichen |

|
Looks like paint slopped on a rock, but it's natural and evidently hand hewn to shape. (Used here to demark a campsite.) |

|
The sun came out and briefly illuminated the Capitol Dome. |

|
The duty Chukar. There seems to be many of them here. (This one was actually in a flock of a dozen or so.) |
|
October 18, 2006 (Wednesday) Fruita Campground, Capitol Reef NP Resolved my concerns about getting medications on the road. Drugstore in WF will send them to Springdale, UT. Getting stuff like this solved is sometimes complex under Medicare D. We were able to take the "closed" scenic drive, but all access to side canyons are still closed. Wondering what's wrong with Utah re: gas prices. We keep hearing about national prices falling--down to $2.30, maybe less--and here it's in the high $2.60s up to $2.74. Walked up into nearby Cohab Canyon in the afternoon. Wind nippy! October 19, 2006 (Thursday) Capitol Reef. Set out to discover Goblin Valley--driving back through Hanksville (around here the land is a true quagmire from recent rains), then farther north and west into the state park. Here there is a huge landscape of red sandstone forms--many looking like fat-stemmed mushrooms or small African mud huts. After watching what we thought might be a bobcat--but which was probably the largest black domestic kitty we'd ever seen, we walked among these little hoodoos for a while. In the not-too-far distance are the snow capped Henry Mountains, the last mountain range discovered in this country. Came back and tried to send some e mail at two places, but failed. October 20, 2006 (Friday) Capitol Reef to Kodachrome Basin State Park, 118 miles. Park Left our campsite at 9 AM and set out for Kodachrome Basin. Noticed that the Fremont River had subsided a bit and was not rushing so furiously, but still the earth is supersaturated. Our route took us over Boulder Mountain, one of the most beautiful drives imaginable for long vistas, though the thin, steep razorback portion is known to have scared some drivers. There was an inch or so of snow along the road. Got into our campsite, #12, which is at the end of the camping area which has a confusing labyrinth of fine sites, and our back yard is huge and scenic and private--perfect. Not many campers here, so we were offered many sites, even a group area. Had reservations, but we really didn't need them. Kodachrome will certainly be on our itinerary in the future! |




|
October 21, 2006 (Saturday) Kodachrome Basin State Park. A gorgeous day. Took off on two trails in the AM --Angels Palace and Grand Parade--and a longer one in the afternoon Panorama), where we stopped at an old Indian cave and saw a jagged streak of petrified lightning going up a steep cliff. Sticking out of the red sandstone formations are numerous monolithic spires of a lighter color. We read that it's probable that these were passages to springs which eventually got filled in and covered with the sandstone, now exposed again. (This is the only place in the world where this type of formation is found!) Birds we've seen along the way are jays, chukars, bushtits, ravens, juniper titmice and magpies. During our hikes we saw many, many jackrabbits. |




|
Fruita from the Cohab Canyon trail |


|
Hmmm... |

|
Blacktail Jackrabbit |


|
Look carefully and you will see a face in the rocks |

|
October 22, 2006 (Sunday) Kodachrome Basin State Park to Zion NP, 108 miles. There was frost on the bikes and windshield in the AM--really chilly out there. Had a lovely ride through a gorgeous territory--Bryce Canyon area, Red Canyon, over to Hatch, then to Zion. Had hoped for our old site but it was not available. An assigned site was just so-so, so as Charlie filled the mh with water I cruised and came up with a much better spot, B 34. Lots of space, a nice tree and a great view of the Watchman. Extended our stay an extra day-through the weekend. Zion partially closes on Oct. 29--last day for busses, and then all sites are self-pay. Okay--we have a household problem here. Something has nibbled our fresh apples. We see no trace of mouse droppings, but we do have mouse traps on the shopping list! Hmmm… Regardless of that, we took off for the visitor center and up the Pa'rus Trail. October 23, 2006 (Monday) Zion. Errand day. Went into Hurricane and bought mouse traps, hardware stuff and food. And even found a good place to park Ms Roo over the winter. This feels good--and now we can leave whenever we wish--and know that our home on wheels is well protected. It will need to be winterized. Two things I appreciate but have not mentioned so far. One is the Keen shoes I bought prior to coming. They do not hurt my hurty foot, they're wide and there are no laces to come lose! Those, along with a cortisone shot, have allowed me to hike all I've wanted. Second, we both appreciate the light, pocket-size binocs we carry. They do not pull on our necks and make us tired. On our PM bike ride today we noticed how clear the Virgin River is this year--which it little doubt was not a couple weeks ago. It's a lot drier here than we'd expected. Plants look fresh and green; there are occasional tansy and Indian paintbrush flowers blooming. October 24, 2006 (Tuesday) Zion. Gray and gloomy day--great for doing overdue housework. I set out for Springdale with gobs of laundry while Charlie cleaned the house. One or two rays of sun started to appear so we threw bikes on the rack of the tram and rode the six miles to the end of the canyon, The sky grew increasingly grayer, so we started downward at a meaningful pace--never did see the bus we came on. Made it home with only a few splashes of rain. The campground pretty well emptied out this AM, but now it's pretty well packed again. October 25, 2006 (Wednesday) Zion. Another gray day. Went for a ride up Kolob Reservoir Rd. Along the way there was quite a stretch of burned trees and landscape.--must have happened this past year. As we ascended the hill, the sky quickly blackened, then it rained--which turned to slush--and at the top of the hill we ran into a little snow squall. Temp dove to the low thirties. Had a bite to eat by the reservoir; then on the way home we were amazed at how many hawks we saw in fields along the way. Dozens of them--mostly red tails--but also northern harriers. Many were sitting like robins in the fields. We also saw a Lewis's woodpecker on a fence near the road. The landscape is so colorful in autumn hues--fresh greens, purples, various shades of tans and browns. Before going home we stopped in at the local library--and found it had moved. Went back to Zion Blvd. and turned onto Lion Blvd. Up this road is a new town hall, the attractive and substantially larger library, tennis courts, an outdoor amphitheater. All with magnificent mountain views. Bought a few sale books--something we seem to do each year. October 26, 2002 (Thursday) Zion. After thinking that the apple nibbler was gone (no signs around of any kind), imagine our surprise when we found one of our apples eaten more extensively. C has laid a mouse trap right across the apples in the bowl. This mystery must be solved before we leave the motor home! We dropped plans for a long bike ride since it was so chilly and instead took the park bus to Zion Lodge for lunch, then went for a hike to the Middle Emerald Pool. The fall colors in the park are late this year; in other years at this time we've caught some brilliant foliage. October 27, 2002 (Friday) Zion. Gorgeous day, a bit warmer. Decided to visit Snow Canyon St. Pk. outside St. George. ("Snow" refers to a Mormon pioneer--not the cold white stuff.) On the way we stopped in Hurricane to locate a propane dealer, someone who sells packing boxes, and a car wash--all in preparation for when we move the motor home to storage. The outskirts of St. George are developing at record rate, and as we approached I was wondering if anything wild still existed for a state park. Well, it does, though if you climb up on the high slick rock for a view you do get to see the outlying congestion. We investigated the park then had lunch in the sunshine. Went through the small campground, thinking ahead for when we return. In case I lose my notes, the sites we like best, for reservations, are 23, 22***, 21, 20, 17 and 2 (power site). Max stay is 5 days. Res. # is 800-322-3770. The apple nibbler ate some more while we were gone (I'd put a black line around parts already eaten). Trap not sprung. No mouse droppings. A large beetle or something??? We rode our bikes over to the park bus, put them aboard and went up into the canyon again. This time we didn't have to run from the rain drops so had a more beautiful ride back down. Sunday will be the last day to enjoy the quiet of the canyon road since the shuttle busses will no longer run and private cars will then be allowed. |

|
Sometime this year there has been a big wildfire in the SW corner of the park |


|
Who is nibbling our apples!!? |



|
Snow Canyon panorama |
|
October 28, 2002 (Saturday) Zion. Drove up to Kolob Canyon. Numerous folks there--it being a weekend. Did a couple miles in there but turned back before the end arch. It's always a gorgeous place, especially in the fall, but this time the colors aren't there like last year. Listened to the last of the audio book, 'Father Joe" on the way home---I think it grabbed both of us. This is the third book we've gone through on this trip. At home, the Household Nibbler struck once again. (it did last night, as well.) This time, I'd put apple as bait on the trap and it was gone, trap unsprung. This time we've tied down the apple bait. Anyone have any suggestions??? October 29, 2002 (Sunday) Zion. Yesterday's news is that Charlie got carded when he bought beer in Springdale, next to the park. He actually had to go back out of the store to the car and get his wallet to prove his majority, then go back to the end of the line. Something very government-ese going on here. Second news is that the Nibbler got caught and (s)he was a very small mouse. Now let's see if we we're dealing with a large family or just this little itinerant. Mystifies me how any such critter could make it way up into our house. Anyhow, whew! Windy day turned into a mild one so we made a last run with the bikes up into the canyon. This is the last day the park busses will be running this year. Many folks using this transportation today. I like the quiet of the canyon without other traffic--just the sound of the Virgin River and the breeze in my ears. Found a nice picnic spot along the river. Watched several rock climbers scaling the steep perpendicular canyon walls--just the thought of doing this gives me he chills. Especially knowing they are handing up there overnight. October 30, 2006 (Monday) Zion. Since it was so chilly outside we drove up to Cedar Breaks Nat'l. Mon. Made a circle of the trip, starting out through the tunnel and then down the other side through Hurricane. The altitude we finally reached was 10,840'; the temp was in the low 30's, snow was covering most of the ground and artistically painted the red rock formations (looked a lot like Bryce Canyon). Along the way we saw quite a bit of volcanic rock and a couple lava fields. Also noticed that a huge number of conifers were dead--whether from bark beetles, acid rain, whatever. Stopped at a viewpoint called Chessman Ridge and walked a short way to see some Bristlecone pine trees. Charlie spied a pinion jay along the way. |



|
Carpenter Bee |

|
October 31, 2006 (Tuesday) Zion. After the wind died down, we drove through the tunnel and eventually parked along the narrow road. Found a canyon and just started walking. After a while it got a little too difficult for me and we decided to turn back, have lunch on the rocks, and maybe find another canyon. The fall colors seem to be more brilliant up in the canyons. Later drove up Zion's main canyon, now somewhat more crowded with private cars. I got the laundry done while Charlie cleaned the house. November 1, 2006 (Wednesday) Zion. Decided to stay two more days--move to the RV park in Hurricane on Friday, winterize the mh, then drive on the weekend through SLC when it will be less trafficky. Did another canyon, had to wait about 40 minutes to get through the tunnel--allowing us to listen to more of "The Great Gatsby" which we are revisiting on CDs. The canyon was long and sometimes pretty rocky for these old knees. But so incredibly quiet. A few hours after starting, we got back to the car only to find the battery stone dead! No other cars around. Fortunately, we had jumpers, so we hooked them up and waited. One car drove by and the second stopped. Two nice ladies from Wisconsin in a rental car stopped and we had a big laugh when we couldn't find the battery in it. (Hidden inside the front fender well) Fortunately, there was a book of instructions and after wiggling the leads many times we got going. |



|
Moonrise in Zion |
|
Bristlecone Pine--among the oldest living things |
|
Cedar Breaks looking west |
|
November 2, 2006 (Thursday) Zion. Our last day at Zion. Thought we'd take the Zion Reservoir Rd. again and bring Charlie's larger camera with us in case we saw as many hawks as before. We weren't prepared for what we saw. Near the hawk area we were looking up in the sky at two large vultures...but wait a moment...weren't those actually California Condors?? The two drifted down and roosted on a rocky ledge about 150' from us--and were out taking pictures, of course. Then there were a couple more in the sky and down they came, too. Each bird had a large, visible number on it and we jotted these down. Decided to have lunch as we watched, and every few minutes we watched more land. When we left, over an hour later, we had seen ten of these incredible birds. Eight on the ledge, two roosting at the top of tall fir trees. Later, when we returned, we saw two more condors. That's twelve--about one-fifth of all those in the wild in the SW and 10% of all free flying condors. Eventually, the condors decided that siesta was over, they became edgy, moving from one rock to another, then drifting off the high cliff one by one. As we watched, we also saw a large raven chasing a small hawk, probably a rough-legged--then the hawk harassed the raven, and back and forth--our type of entertainment, for sure! (Stats on CA condors: Length 46", Wing span 109", Weight 23 lbs.) In 1982 the total population had dropped to 22 individuals. With extinction imminent the decision was made to capture them all and attempt a captive breeding program. Subsequently, there have been three successful reintroductions (so far anyway) - here in Utah and N Arizona, another in California, and a third in Baja.) (More condor info) |










|
November 3, 2006 Hurricane, Utah. Started down the pike in the morning, wedged our way into a gas station for propane, picked up some packing boxes. Installed ourselves in a pull-through site assigned to us in Willowind RV park where we'll be storing Ms Roo these next months. Though it's one of the better parks, it's far from being a place I'd enjoy. Main drawing cards are bingo and crafts, you can hear the clank of horseshoes in all directions, old guys drive bikes with American flags flapping from them, many ladies are adorned with curlers, there are numerous small enclaves of men passing the time of day solving whatever. : Several years ago, it was posted here that anyone who approved of the UN could essentially pack up and leave! Of course the legal beagles had something to say about this, but you can estimate how Right this area is. Spent the afternoon cleaning the place, packing, making sure we haven't forgotten anything. Ate out since we've eaten all our food. Tomorrow we'll winterize and head for home. November 4 (Saturday) Pocatello, ID. Took two hours from the time we got up to when we left--got stuff organized, fridge cleaned, mouse traps set, much trash dumped, mh winterized. Went out for a buffet breakfast, then hit I-15, hoping for minimum traffic through SLC. The farther north we went, the grayer the skies, but aside form a bit of drizzle we had no problem. Much snow on tops of Manti Mts. Got our first gas for $2.67 (ouch) and later in the day found it for $2.26 at a Flying J. Decided to stop for the night at Pocatello, about half way home. Thought we'd try to find a recommended Italian restaurant called Buddy's, but when we finally located it there was a long line outside. Tried then for a Golden Corral where we actually got a good meal. While we were eating, the Sacramento State track team, (dozens of 'em) who had participated in a large meet here this weekend, strode in and were ecstatic about the amount of food they saw. One thing that made me laugh was when some of the guys found the soft ice cream, and instead of using the dainty dessert dishes provided, they used soup bowls and then made humungous, wobbling towers of ice cream. November 5 (Saturday) Home. The last day was, fortunately, a smooth ride, thanks to Charlie's diligent driving, and we arrived in WF late in the afternoon. We covered the distance in two days that it took us 6 weeks to cover on the way south. Actually, the way home was a bit less than 1000 miles, and the way we came south was about 1600. Which, by the way, is how we deal with high fuel prices in the motor home. By moving only short distances and staying several days (but almost two weeks in Zion), the actual average per day on this trip was about 36 miles per day. Quite soon we were back to the "real world", the endless paperwork, the credit card hassles, and to boot, Charlie's Medicare Part D plan got changed to the point where he has to recalculate the whole mess once again. As I write this, we are listening to the election results.. |
|
The photo to the left is a logging project within a remote corner of Zion National Park!! A park service information sign indicates it is a forest improvement project (albeit a small one--45 acres). The sign also said it was done by private contractors and marketable timber was sold, presumably by the contractor. What the heck is going on here?? Since when are we logging our National Parks with the involvement of "private contractors"? I have no problem with removal of exotics, clearing of some trees for safety reasons in developed areas, but this is not what is going on here. The trees removed were native pines and aspen. National park policy has always been to allow natural processes to work (including natural fires) and not to log, particularly for quasi commercial purposes. Is this yet another Bush administration "Stealthy Forest Initiative" project? |


|
At rest for several months |

|
Communications Central. Our e-mails and blog updates all emanate from here. Normally, we connect to the net using a cell phone to computer lash-up; it's slow, but hey--it generally works! |
|
Back to home page |