Sunday, April 30--May 2

Onward, 225 miles north and east, to Burns Run East (#42), another COE park just over the OK border on Lake Texoma (there are, again, a couple more COE parks along here, too--as well as Eisenhower St. Pk. in TX) But we get into Corps parks at half price as geezers, and got us a nice end site overlooking the lake, just as weekend folks were packing up and leaving. Wind started to blow fiercely at day's end and continued through the night. Turned on the radio just to ascertain that no more big storms were arriving!

Monday was still windy but gorgeous, and we visited Hagerman Wildlife Refuge back over the Texas line. The main body of water there is the Big Mineral Arm of Lake Texoma, which is home to huge numbers of waterfowl in winter. As it was, we did see several kinds of ducks, but very few, some Wilson's Phalaropes, (finally!) a number of Dickcissels, stilts, many herons and egrets. No warblers--not even one. Did a lot of walking through tall grasses, around small ponds. In many waterways we saw astounding numbers of enormous fish--mostly carp. Their fins stuck high above the water and their movements caused literal waves. Saw one huge coyote. Unusual that there should be oil rigs around the refuge. Hagerman was established in 1946 and oil was discovered in '51 (mineral rights were retained by the original owners; not the refuge).

Spent extended time in the wee hours again monitoring the NOAA radio and maps. Seems there is a stationary front just above us and this pattern of storms, good weather and then more storms will continue for a while.

Visited Tishomingo NWR, also on part of Lake Texoma (even though it's about a forty minute drive from our campground, Burns Run East). The area used to be a farm, and parts of old buildings still stand--not in good condition. All around there are areas of large trees--even some old elms--and we craned our old necks to find birds up in the blowing leaves. Found a beautiful Yellow-throated Warbler, and later, along a woodsy waterway we found numerous singing Prothonotary Warblers. (Northern Parulas complete the warbler list.) Lots of Dickcissels, swallows, a large flock of Franklin's Gulls flew by, many egrets and herons down by the lake, and more--to give us about forty species. Not many, actually. Our Critter of the Day was a bobcat-what a treat! There is a nice nature trail with a boardwalk at this NWR but saw little when we got down to the pond. Many frogs (invisible, of course) sang to us "Naaaah" in a nasal, metallic chorus. We were threatened with thunder storms but they fortunately went elsewhere. On the way home we explored Eisenhower St. Pk. Across the TX line--a very extensive, including a yacht club and marina, but all in all we consider ourselves fortunate in having chosen the COE area which seems so much more attractive and open. An end of day bike ride to the picnic area here allowed us to see quite a few Bullock's Orioles flitting among the trees.

There was an unclosed section in the screen door in the evening, and before we discovered it, a gazillion little bugs come in to join us. They crowded 'round the lights, thousands on the ceiling, everywhere imaginable--many screaming in our ears. Sprayed the dickens out of our place, dead bugs all over. Cleaned and vacuumed enormously in the AM!

Again, spent hours of the night awake and in readiness to bail out of the motor home and flee toward a restroom for safety from a storm. Igor and data on the computer kept us apprised of many details solemn moment by moment. Up to Tornado Warning #280 at this point. Finally the rains came, constant lightning crackled for hours, and crashing thunder accompanied it. We hunkered down, pulled in the slide-out and just sat and waited it out, hour by hour. Fortunately, winds weren't driving at us (they had been reported at over 70 mph nearby) and the amount of hail was minimal--what we had was enough, thank you. Funny, sitting here in this little capsule in a storm--the world howling just outside, no one else around to help--you just have to chill out. Another round of this due tonight.

Wednesday, May 3

Good deal of traffic and crummy highways to deal with today, but got to Eufaula Lake (Belle Starr COE campground) early afternoon. Hardly a soul here, so we had three large camping from which to choose. The old couple in the guard house must be bored to tears--hardly a thing to do. Again, we're sitting right next to the lake (#E 12). Went to pick up mail in Checotah--the Priority box had amazingly arrived in only two days from MT. On our after supper biking/birding tour we discovered a number of Northern Gannets flying over the lake--very unusual indeed. Baltimore Orioles are pretty prevalent here--so beautiful this time of year. Believe it or not, we saw our first Robins of the year--the more we saw, the more we've seen!

Thursday, May 4

At about 3 AM Igor bleated his storm warnings and from then we were pretty much up and focused on trying to determine where the worst of the storms were hitting. Seems an area up near Tulsa got the brunt of the storm--an area which had been so drought-ridden turned into a flood. Cars floating down streets. Constant lightning flashed outside our place and thunder rolled and rain poured down. Charlie unplugged our outside power cord as usual (It breaks our connection to ground and reduces lightning damage potential), and later, as we left, we pulled in the slide-out. In spite of rain descending, we visited Sequoyah NWR. Each refuge is entirely different, and this one kept us busy and focused all day long. Here we made our way over six or so miles of roads adjacent to grain and corn fields--now semi-lakes. All sorts of birds were bobbing around amid the farm rows--Bobolinks, many Eastern Kingbirds, bunches of Indigo buntings, a large group of Black-bellied Plovers, Bobwhite Quail, Scissor-tails, assorted swallows, dozens of Dickcissels and the usual domineering number of blackbirds. Evidently all were busy picking up drowning earth-worms forced to the surface by the deluge. Today's unique critter was an otter. The refuge has a mile-long paved trail down along an oxbow (of the Arkansas River)--which till now was pretty dry. We strolled along this, since the rain had quit. An area with many bushes and trees, a good place for seeing a variety of birds, a favorite place for fishermen, also. Listed over fifty birds at Sequoyah. Stopped by a chicken place for supper. When we got home there was a (huge) pair of Canada Geese near us by the lake, with their sturdy-legged, fuzzy yellow brood of five.

It was so good to get a full night's sleep; Igor did not bleat at us this night. Weather still unstable but not catastrophic. Got an early start in case we were able to find Deep Fork NWR--a new refuge not yet on the map. We drove northwest to Okmulgee, phoned the refuge office and got directions. This one is one more gem, the greatest part being a long board walk through a hardwood hammock, crossing duckweed-covered Montezuma Stream, eventually leading to a shallow lake with grasses. And at least five beautiful Wood Ducks. From the time we came into the area (passing by a couple humorous armadillos decorating a neighbor's place) we found the bird watching a treasure. Painted Buntings hung on power wires, there were several warblers, a Least Flycatcher, many Indigo Buntings, Swainson's Thrushes, a Veery, more.

Drove back close to Okmulgee and then an hour more to COE camp at Salt Creek Cove North near Mannford, on Keystone Lake. The lake is very full from the recent storms--several picnic tables are partly submerged. Can't say the staff here is friendly--and the map we were given was about as helpful and legible as nothing. But it's a port on the itinerary and it's for only one night. Our site, #A32, ($7.50) looks out over the lake. There's a railroad track within sight, and each train blasts its whistle hard at least four long blasts. Across from us is a volunteer enclave which makes us believe the folks must live here. Boat, ATV, storage shed, horse trailer, several vehicles, all sorts of debris decorate the site!

Saturday, May 6

Another gray day, the 52 degree rawness penetrating. Not sad to leave this hare-brain-designed camping area, headed again north and west, eventually onto the OK Turnpike toward the town of Enid. We seemed to transition from the more agricultural area into the plains. In Enid--much larger than expected and with enormous traffic, we tried to find a cyber café in order to download e mail. Saw a Starbucks, bought lattes, then found we had to join a club to make computer facilities work. Met a lady there with whom we sat and discussed stuff stretching from metaphysics to camping to hospice to the nature of human actions (being either fear-driven or reflections of gratitude). It's hard to believe, but on this very day our esteemed prez managed to come to this very town to give a graduation address at OK. St. When his helicopter flew over many folks dashed outside to watch it. From what we heard, he is not as esteemed out here as he apparently thinks he is. Anyhow, strange coincidence!

Relieved to leave all the traffic, we drove half an hour farther northward to Great Salt Plains St. Pk. where there was room for us to park along the Salt Fork of the Arkansas River. We were even given a little discount for being over 62! From the motor home we can see White Pelicans, Great and Snowy Egrets, little shore birds, Yellow Warblers, more.

Sunday, May 7

Spent most of the day at Salt Plains NWR just up the road from the campground. There's an auto route and a nature foot trail. Found about 76 different species--our count rises! Found a Veery, which was not on the bird list, and those we saw "bunches" of were Yellow Warblers (finally!), Eastern Kingbirds, American Avocets, Indigo Buntings, Cedar Waxwings, many kinds of herons, Cliff Swallows. Felt like it was a productive day, despite the continuing grayness.

Monday, May 8

Substantial thunder storm descended during the night but the day cleared up nicely. Drove a few hours up to Hutchinson, KS, and found Melody Acres, a private (rather run-down) campground. Any place for us to stay in this section of the country is becoming difficult to find. Dropped off the motor home (no one in the office) and then drove another hour over to Quivira NWR--a great area of grasslands and shallow lakes including a couple extensive salt marshes (all great for waterfowl and in winter). Miles of driving here. Had lunch up on an observation deck and then checked out the rest. Blackbirds abound here, as well as Eastern Kingbirds. All in all we saw about 50 species. Always amazes us what we don't see--common birds like Robins, Flickers, Say's Phoebes, etc. Today we did study sandpipers and among others found White-rumped and Stilt Sandpipers.

All day we couldn't help admiring how beautiful the Kansas the landscape is. This season paints it quite green, and the towns and farms we see look neat and well-tended, and the roads are in pretty good shape, as well. Fields are puddled from recent rains. At day's end we heard that again a tornado watch is in effect till midnight--our Igor doesn't work here and we can't get online to get more precise info.

Tuesday, May 9

No tornado but loud thunder storms crashed most of the night, and for lack of sleep I was dozing most of this day. Our trip up to Kirwin NWR took about four hours through (comparatively) hillier areas of Kansas--where spring is at an earlier stage since we're father north. Fields here aren't as green and crops aren't quite as far along.

Kirwin NWR is fairly large; it used to be extensively covered with water but over the many years drought has hit this area, the water level has dropped and cottonwoods have died off noticeably. The water level descending is also the result of more farmers now depending on irrigation. From what we're reading, less numbers of waterfowl coming has given way for more field birds to appear. Saw many Baltimore Orioles here and enjoyed watching dozens of pheasants in the fields at dusk. We are able to stay right here on the refuge; no one else is here and the night should be quite quiet.

One thing I've meant to mention is the fact that NPR seems to extend throughout this state. Often, in other states, when we get out into rural areas, NPR dies out and the usual number of sordid local stations takes over. Here also, NPR's ask-its are short and simple and direct--no weeks of haranguing.

Wednesday, May 10

Hard to believe that as I write it's 43 degrees here in upper Nebraska--at mid-afternoon! We're looking out onto the whitecaps of Merritt Reservoir, (Cedar Area) this large area having once belonged to the COE. Now it's under state management and they've arranged it so that one fee stacks up on another. Daily permits required (one for each vehicle) for even being here, then more for camping. Critters of comfort when it's cold, we dove into an electrical site, so get to fork over $7 extra per day. It was a long day of driving in very windy weather. Toward the end, we found ourselves on a one lane road for thirty miles--fortunately had only three passing situations, two of them pulled over for us. On this stretch of the road it sleeted on us.

Last night, when we expected eternal quiet at the refuge, we had another eye-opener when high winds blasted us at about 40 mph. We rocked and rolled, brought in the slide-in, closed windows when it rained, etc. Hmmm. Actually, from what we're hearing, areas we visited recently (Dallas area and areas in OK) have just had damaging tornadoes.

Seems we've entered into another season as we've come north. Crops are hardly visible, first spring flowers are starting to bloom around homes. Noticed how low the Platte River (still) is as we passed over it. Sure miss the nice picnic turn-offs of Texas--neither Neb. Nor KS seem to believe in them and it's hard to find places to pull over when we need to.

Thursday, May 11

Drove about 26 miles into town of Valentine and found a "cyber café"--actually the coffee came out of coffee makers as it does in gas stations--and on the side ladies' and men's tennie runners were sold. Phat Pete's. Did our usual jawing about the nation's state of affairs--it's always fun to see how other folks come down on what's happenin'. Then found our way over to nearby Fort Niobrara NWR--another great place--very open grassland encircled in low hills.(sandhill country). Had elk and bison, acres of prairie dogs, the Niobrara River running swiftly through. Not a whole lot of birds but such a pleasant place. Walked through an area of dense oaks and pines down near the river; thousands of caterpillars were squirming expectantly within their sturdy tents, shiny poison ivy shoots headed toward the sky. It's evident that the drought of lower Nebraska has not touched this area. The lake near our campsite has risen well above the trees on the banks; picnic tables immersed.

Friday, May 12

Just realized that I've been writing notes under "April" rather than May. Calendars and life on the road don't always mix. At any rate, today bloomed beautifully clear and we visited Valentine NWR, which is adjoining this Merritt Reservoir area. (See NWR sign which is a high contender with MT signs.) This is a great pot-hole prairie place, and we were excited to see so many Upland Sandpipers which we used to see in TX as they pass through in the spring. Interests me to see so many (rather small) yuccas on these plains (and even these huge puffballs!) The area we covered is dotted with lakes and we scoured them with binocs, finding White Pelicans, several large balls of circling Wilson's Phalaropes, a couple Trumpeter Swans, a variety of ducks, Canada Geese, some with newborns. Had picnic lunch in a tiny campground (free, we found) on Ballard's Marsh. Pulled chairs out into the sunshine--the wind is still biting. Dashed into Valentine again to do the computer thing--at the library this time (really nice library). Gas prices have risen almost before our eyes--up five cents in a few moments to $2.93. Gulp.

Monday, May 15

Only 98 miles' drive to a Pactola Nat'l. Forest site in the pines of Black Hills Nat'l. Forest, south of Rapid City, SD. Smooth sailing till we got to Rapid City, then slow going because of traffic, some long, steep hills, then trying to find a site. The 'burbs here are interesting--they seem to end, only to have another--and then another--farther appear up the pike. The area we're in is near a reservoir but the reservoir is fairly low and the boat ramp is closed. The camping is closed except for one loop and there is no water. (And no fee.) A visitor center up the road is closed. Looks like the season is early here. Flowering cherry trees are just blooming in folks' yards nearer town. Dashed back to the RC Safeway later in the day and did some exploring.

Tuesday, May 16--Wednesday, May 17

The cell phone charger blew out a number of fuses, which had to become discovered, so the am was spent running to town, buying fix-its and having Charlie perform his magic. In the afternoon we dashed down the pike to be tourists at Mt. Rushmore. Kitsch everywhere--motels, signs, cutsie atmosphere. It was necessary to enter a huge parking structure in order to see the monument. The parking was a concession and cost $8. We bit the bait and walked to the overlook, passing a plaza with state flags flying. On the statues, Lincoln's mole is 16" square; faces are about 60' from chin to top of head; noses are 20', except for Washington's which is 21'; mouths are 18' across. The full sculpture is 185' across and 150' tall. It cost nearly a million dollars--the Fed gov't. paid 85% of the cost and local businesses private citizens and railroad contributed 15%.

The Federal Healthy (Stealthy??) Forest Initiative is quite in evidence in these parts. Ostensibly passed to reduce fire loading, particularly around populated areas, we an see that many, many very large trees, including yellow pines in excess of 2 feet in diameter, have been cut. (Mature Western Yellow Pine is the most fire resistant of all forest trees--but also one of the most valuable.) It appears that the Forest Initiative is indeed being used to harvest huge amounts of commercial quality timber, and only a modicum of small diameter trees and brush is being cleared. Strange that the slash, including tons of great fire wood, is piled tepee-style all around the woods for eventual burning in the winter. The forest floor look swept. Any comments about making a rich forest floor??

On both Tuesday afternoon and Wednesday we visited Custer State Park, a place we'd love to return to for an elongated stay. It is thousands of acres large with a number of environments--grasslands, pine woods, scenic rocky areas. Buffalo wander about it like horses generally graze in the wild. There were many babies recently born. Old bulls wallowed in the dust, sending clouds of dust billowing. Clumps of mountain sheep ewes lay stretched out beside the road. Prairie dogs sit on their burrows in various sections of this large area. We wandered down a side road to catch sight of any birds and ran into the couple who are the birding volunteers at Custer. Talked at length, walked for a bit into the woods and saw several newly-arrived neo-tropicals: Black-headed Grosbeaks, Western Tanagers, Mountain Bluebirds, Orange-crown Warblers, more. Lunch at a picnic area near the Blue Bell area. Later, we drove to nearby Wind Cave Nat'l. Park. The batteries in my camera faded, so no cave pics. This cave is known for the "boxwork" formations inside--thin calcite honeycomb-shaped structures protruding from walls and ceilings. Wind blows in and out of holes to the outside, the amount of force dependent on changes in the atmospheric pressure. About 115 miles of passages have been explored over the years, but by analyzing the volume of air going in and out, it has been determined that less than 10% of this cave has been explored; meaning there must be close to 1000 miles of passages in here!

Thursday, May 18--Friday, May 19

Drove about 260 miles north, mainly using Rt. 85. At some point reached 5600' where the quakies were essentially without leaves. Passed many miles of (short) grasslands, and we were back to seeing cows and sheep rather than buffalo. Headed for the South unit of Teddy Roosevelt Nat'l. Pk. And found a great site in Cottonwood Campground (#9) there. These sites are extremely generous and most are private, many pull-throughs. The Little Missouri flows close by. Migrants (birds!) are coming in, but many aren't here yet. Regardless, this is a good birding spot. Western Kingbirds are vying for nesting spots. Spotted Towhees are busy digging the sandy soil. (Of course, prairie dogs love this soil, as well.) Buffalo roam freely in the park; two huge bulls were in the area close to the entrance to the campground. One was scratching its head on a picnic table, and we noted that the tables are built strong here!

Saturday, May 20

To continue yesterday's buffalo remarks: as I write here this evening, there is a huge bull within a few yards of the motor home. What a gift to be able to see his hide, his eyelashes, his molting, wooly coat. He stuck around for quite a while, looked around, peed, scratched his back on a large nearby tree.

Day started rainy but eventually brightened up. Temp dropped almost 40 degrees--from being in the 90s down to the mid-50s. We "did the loop" another time, stopped in nearby Medora for a buffet lunch and to collect e mail in our car in the park. (Yesterday when we stopped at this small park, a black helicopter landed. Military personnel emerged, a sheriff's car awaited them. Beneath the thin black paint, "U.S. Army" had been printed. Anyone's guess.)

Sunday, May 21

Started toward Downstream Campground at Fort Peck, MT (#65), going through the National Grasslands, then into more agricultural areas after crossing the state border. Reservoir at Fort Peck is very low, no water even near the spillway (though the nearby grasses are fairly green). Day hot--in high 80s. We look out over part of the reservoir, smiling at Canada geese, one pair with 13 goslings! Did bike trek around the area--not a great variety of birds here this year. Glad to see that gas is not more expensive in MT: $2.80 for regular (but diesel is $3.30).

Monday, May 22

Quite hot and not much doin' at Fort Peck so decided to head onward. In need of propane, Charlie threaded the motor home into a small fenced area at a gas station in Glasgow--not easy. Drove over to Bowdoin NWR, the road unpleasantly bumpy towards the headquarters. Did the 15 mile auto tour, driving around a number of lakes, small islands near shore being used for breeding grounds of CA and Ring-bill Gulls, Pelicans and Cormorants. Hundreds of them. One highlight was seeing a Short-eared Owl which popped up right next to the car. Great photo op there. Saw numbers of Amer. Avocets, Wilson's Phalaropes and Black-neck Stilts, plus a large bunch of Black-bellied Plovers, some Chestnut-collared Longspurs on the roadway and Yellow-headed Blackbirds. Later, drove onward to Fresno Reservoir and spent a free night atop a hilltop with continuous lightning strikes we could see in all directions.

Tuesday, May 23

Over the night the wind picked up tremendously, so driving with a gale blowing from the side was anything but easy this whole day. Tumbleweeds danced rapidly across the roads. Anticipating a two-day stay at Two Medicine, we stopped for groceries at an IGA in Shelby. How many times have we reminded ourselves to avoid IGAs?? This was one of the worst (then later, of course, we discovered an Albertson's…) Pulled into East Glacier around 1 PM, trundled up to Two Med--and found it closed to camping. Thanks, guys, for not putting a sign out near the highway… Separated car from motor home, reversed, re-hitched and headed toward home. Found purple lilacs blooming all along the roads this day. The Flathead River was running full, bugs were splattering on the windshield in abundance. Beautiful Flathead in the spring. It was another fine trip.

Final Bop of the spring 2006 trip.

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